I know you should probably run the hose directly to the gun without a quick disconnect for HVLP to get maximum flow, but I like having the quick disconnect at the gun, because it allows the hose to swivel, and those Sharpe hi-flow quick disconnects don't cut down the flow too much.įor my little HVLP touch up gun, I just use the regular cheap little quick disconnects and don't seem to have any problems with them on that little gun, because it doesn't eat up as much air as the bigger HVLP guns. That's to account for the pressure drop you get in the line and through the hose fittings. Then I remove the gauge from the gun and run the quick disconnect right to the gun and use my chart to figure out what pressure I want to run at the regulator to get the pressure I want at the gun. I made a chart in large letters on a piece of plywood next to my air dryer: "x psi at the dryer = y psi at the gun" for a bunch of different inlet pressures. I use a gauge at the gun temporarily to find out what the actual pressure is at the gun with the trigger pulled, and another gauge back at a regulator coming out of my big Devilbiss air dryer filter thing's outlet. įor my two regular sized HVLP guns, I use 3/8" ID hose and some Sharpe hi-flow quick disconnects. I am glad to answer any questions concerning paint because that is one thing I can do and love to teach others. #HARBOR FREIGHT MILTON QUICK DISK CONNECTS FULL#You squeeze an HVLP down with less than a full 3/8 hole all the way through and you are now trying to make up the difference with more air and IT DON'T WORK ! You may THINK you are getting good results but you are fighting the HVLP design all the way. #HARBOR FREIGHT MILTON QUICK DISK CONNECTS HOW TO#I have helped the techs at the PPG training facility in Houston help teach painters that THINK they know how to use a gun and have been using them wrong for years. I use my normal IWATA with a 1.3 needle as my airbrush also just by knowing how to use it. Just put the pattern on "pencil" and leave your air pressure the same as a wide open pattern and listen to the difference. Also, the tighter you squeeze your pattern down like say to pencil in a tighter area, the less fluid and air pressure you will need. Ask any good painter out there and he or she will verify everything I just told you. Not to brag but most of my walk-away paint jobs looked like they have been cut and buffed already and that's just learning how to use your equipment not science. If you have too much air pressure, the fluid will be heavy on the outside of the pattern and light in the middle so keep squeezing and letting off your air pressure until you see the pattern equal out all the way through for each liquid you are squirting. Learn to watch your spray pattern ! Hold the gun up against a light and pull the trigger with fluid and adjust your pressaure until you see a full and constant pattern all the way across your pattern at wide open position. Use the REGULATOR on the wall just after your dryers and seperators ONLY ! Don't worry about looking at an air gauge either because depending on your viscosity of liquid, that will change constantly. If you are spraying high metallics you can litterally see the difference in atomization of the pattern as it leaves the fluid tip when you change to the smaller fittings or "CHOKE" it down with an inline regulator or cheap water trap. I personally have used every brand out there and stuck with the IWATA for my show cars. HVLP's are designed for High Volume / Low Pressure (HVLP) Most quality HVLP's have a built in air regulator right in the handle of the gun. Any HVLP gun needs a minimum of a 3/8 hole going DIRECTLY into the gun ! Not a regulator on the gun which squeezes the hole back down ! I am a master certified PPG painter and have been painting since the age of 14 years old and I am now 45.
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